Dog bandana pattern and instructions and a picture of our tree this year

 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 🐕 

We put bandanas on the pups regularly from the beginning. They leave them alone 99.9% of the time. They seem to like wearing them. 

We remove harnesses, collars and bandanas when they go in their crate, for safety. 

That is a piece of sweet potato, she is learning “wait”. On command she tosses it up and then catches it. 

I am very attached to this dog bandana pattern, it has the casual look of a tied traditional (square) bandana without all the bulk. We prefer a dog bandana that ties (vs snap or button). 

I use one yard of fabric per bandana. That allows ample cutting room for both sides. 

The directions are simple -

Cut two, each on the fold, paying attention to the fabric if there is an up and a down to the print. The point is the bottom of the bandana, the long side is the top, if the dog wears it like the above picture. 

I double fold the fabric, opposite of how it comes off the bolt, and cut both pieces at the same time to save as much of the extra fabric as possible and to get identical pieces. If you click on the photo/enlarge, can see the edges and folds. The fabric is four layers thick under the pattern piece (only).

Here is the extra fabric, I can use for other projects -

Right sides together, sew with a 2/8” seam allowance, leaving a 3” gap to turn it right side out. 

I back stitch at the beginning and end of my stitching, at the point, and at the end of the ties. I use a zigzag foot for this 2/8” seam allowance -

Flip right side out and press carefully. 

Top stitch using (blending thread color) a very skinny (1/8”) presser foot, so the top stitching catches the inside seam allowance for added strength and sews up the 3” gap. 

I back stitch intermittently, for added strength, just a stitch or two, at the point and all along the ends which will be tied.

The pattern (below) is on a 1” grid. Drawing on graph paper, or blowing the picture up on a copy machine, or a combination of both, should work to duplicate this pattern at home. 

This pattern works for our pups at 30-35lbs. It is easy to enlarge or reduce this pattern size. 

Here are the bandanas under our tree for the puppies this year. The valentines and st pat are woven cotton, the plaids are cotton flannel.  

This is a 6’ skinny tree tucked on the window seat. It takes up no floor space, it fills the window, it takes a small amount of ornaments to fill this tree fully, I can do it myself. This year the tree was decorated with my gold set of ornaments. I also have a red/green, and white/aqua set, and matching “skirts”. I use one print/type of wrapping paper for everything. Two rolls gets me through a year, I switch every year. My leftover paper goes to my neighbor. 

We have a lot of dog experience

I grew up with dogs. We have been watching neighbor’s two Goldens for years. She has been working from home for a couple years now, but we still keep them when she is on vacation or has a very busy day. 

We have two seven month golden doodles now too, sisters from the same litter, my middle’s dogs. I watch them during the day when she is at work. 

Looking through our Amazon orders from this year, I realized I had a good range of dog information. I added things from our PetSmart account also. These are not toys, they are what we consider necessities for dogs at our house. 

Birthday present to middle last March, this bin stores dog food.  It has a great twist on lid, keeps the food fresh, while securing it from mice, bugs and puppies. We keep it in a hallway. It could be used in garage easily. We only have one, it holds 60 lbs, one large bag. If we had two, we would not stack them. (I got this idea from Kim and Scott/Yellow Brick Home)

Dog food bowls. Between middle and I, we have purchased five of these. Two are here for the puppies, two are here for the neighbor’s dogs. One is at the neighbors for her 3.5 pup. It slows down eating process for dogs who snarf. 

Lick mats the puppies use. Puppy safe peanut butter, baby food (squash, sweet potato). We have these in the freezer, ready all the time. We use occasionally with the puppies. 

Lick mats we keep for the neighbor’s dog. I have ordered five of these. Two at our house. Two gifted to neighbor. One in the Christmas box for one of my husband’s brother’s dog. Neighbor’s two dogs get one of these every day for lunch when they are here. 

Car harness, it attaches to dog safety belt (below). The puppies had to get big enough for these. They are currently in a size small. There is a metal loop on back for car and one on front for leash. So can safely transfer dog from leash to car in parking lots. 

This seat belt is from PetSmart. One end hooks to dog harness, the other end plugs into regular safety belt piece in car. We have five of these. Two in middle’s backseat, two in my back seat, one in my glove compartment for when I have an extra dog. We always buckle all dogs.

This device fits over the safety belt plug in the car so no one accidentally unbuckles themselves by stepping on button. That happened twice before we got these for middle’s car and mine. These also work great for toddlers and special needs kids.

This is from PetSmart also. We have two, one in middle’s  backseat and one in mine. Yes, they keep things cleaner, but mostly they are safety. They keep the pups from slipping to the floor. They also make the backseat very comfortable, much like a hammock, for the pups. There is a zipper, so we can squish the pups on one side and someone can sit on the other half when needed, with all three riders buckled. It also comes with a supply case. I keep a collapsible water bowl, two servings of emergency dog food, two leashes, a roll of poop bags in mine. 

New leashes from PetSmart, very easy on my hands. We have four, two in my car, two in middle’s. All black, 4’.

Harnesses the pups wear in the house, but not in their crate (naked) and not in the car (car harness listed above).

We have two Kong crates from PetSmart with a black ortho crate mat pad (36”x24”) now in the bottom of each. 

We used just one of these large crates for a long time, with a washable pad (gray) in the bottom, and a divider to make the crate smaller. We used it to keep the puppies together in a smaller area until they were fully potty trained. As the puppies grew and got more dependable, we moved the divider to give them more space. We used a small pad and then a medium pad (gray).

Now the pups are each in their own full crate with the doors open so they can get to each other if they want at night and during nap time. If they are home alone, which very rarely happens, we lock each in their own crate. 

Ortho crate mat pad we use now (36”x24”), one in each crate, black. 

Crate Pads (gray) we used in various sizes while the pups were tiny and potty training. The medium one is still in use as a mat/bed in the living room. 

I think this is the right crate. We have two, size large. I think the Kong crates are only carried by PetSmart. (Our neighbor has this same type, she has one each size for puppies, did not use the divider.)

Current crate set up at our house. Yes, puppy condos. This is how the puppies are tucked in at night and morning nap time. Could they get out, yes, but they do not. If we are all gone, they are home alone, which hardly ever happens, they are each locked in their own crate. 

We have three sets of these. One is still out in the gravel puppy pee pit. One lived in the kitchen for a couple months. Lengths of 2-3 sections are still used to block doorways at our house and my mother’s. 

We also have two of these gates, one on pantry, the other at bottom of stairs. I think Target or Walmart. Those are old gates. Youngest had one at college to keep her former roommates dog out of her room. I had one on my sewing room to keep neighbor’s dogs out. 

We have a piece of wood just low enough to step over, to keep puppies out of kitchen. Could they jump it, yes, but they do not. 

These worked so great for puppies after spay surgery. They wore them for two weeks straight. One puppy ended up back in hers, so I recommend three weeks. We washed them a few times, but had to do it during nap time so they did not bother their incision areas. The puppies were in size large. 

Poop bags. Biodegradable. We use a stone (#8 river rock) potty area on the side of the house. We pick up after every trip, we use the bags for all pick ups and then the full bags go straight in an outside garbage can. This keeps things sanitary and prevents bugs and odor. We have used these for years, with neighbor’s dogs too. Each box comes with a carrying case that attaches to leash, we use those on all walking leashes. We have given a box of these as gift, for new pet owners. 

They are still on their puppy formula food -

Things we have/use that are not mentioned above -

Tooth brushes and toothpaste. Middle brushes their teeth each night. 

Ear cleaner. They get their ears cleaned once a week. The cleaner solution is from the vet. 

Brushes. They are brushed every day. 

Shampoo. They get a bath once a month. 

Vitamins. They were on one a day tiny puppy vitamins for the first month or so. 

Flee and tick meds. We buy these from the vet, specific to their current weight. They take meds once a month. 

They have lifetime city tags, very inexpensive ($30) after spay. 

ID tags. There is a set of ID tags zipped in a special compartment inside their car harnesses for an emergency. 

Chipped. Both puppies are chipped and all our phone numbers are on their online account/registration. 

They have collars with ID tags for safety/identification. These are not used very often. The last time was at the vet for their spay so the vet could tell them apart. Ditto at groomers. The pups look nearly identical. 

Simplicity 5201 apron sewing instructions

  Note - See the previous post for cutting directions.

So, here we are, cut and ready to sew.

The first sewing step, for me, is to make the pocket. 

Using 5/8” seam allowance, I sew right sides together. I leave a small (2”) gap to flip it right side out. It is easiest to leave the opening on the straight top edge, but not where the tuck will be. Yes, 2” is enough of a gap to turn it inside out.

I v-notch the curves. I cut the excess seam allowance at the corners without getting too close to the stitching line.

I turn the pocket piece right side out. I press it carefully. The top stitching will close the gap/opening. Using the pattern, I pin to tuck the center and top stitch, just this top edge, twice. 

It might seem weird to use the zigzag foot to top stitch, but it works well with the thickness of the tuck. I first line the foot up with the outside edge, and then I go back and sew down the middle (between the edge and my first top stitching line).  I back stitch over the tuck on both top stitching lines. 

It is a gift to myself later, to have the pocket ready to attach as the last step. 

Note - it is nice to “fussy cut” the pocket according to your fabric.

Next is to sew the front and back of the apron pieces at the side seams only, leave the shoulders unattached. 

I use a thin seam allowance (3/8”) and then also run the side seams through the serger to finish them so they do not fray with washings. I repeat with the lining pieces.  

I press all the seam allowances one/the same direction so they alternate when sewn together. (If you do not have a serger, you might have a finishing stitch on your regular machine, or at least zigzag.)

Piping

I use 3 packages of store bought piping (JoAnn’s). 

In my opinion piping is the easiest way to get a nice finish with the edge and top stitching. Piping comes in a variety of colors. I have only ever used this brand.

I use a zipper foot to attach the piping to the edge of the apron fabric. I take care to put the right side of the piping against the right side of the apron fabric (so the excess stitching/thread side of the piping does not show). Heavy thread side up, nice piping stitching down/against right side of apron. 

Very important note - When sewing the piping to the apron, be very careful not to tug on the piping, it will make the apron edging tight/too small. I try to stitch right on the heavy thread line of the piping. 

Important Note - I remove 1.5” of the cording from the piping at the shoulder seams. I simply pull a length out, measure, cut. 

I do this eight times (see below). I removed 1.5” of cording from the top of the piping on top of all (8) shoulder edges. This is very important for sewing the shoulders later. 

This (below) is how I connect the piping to make it all the way around the outside edge of the apron. I only have to do this once per apron. 

I pull/cut 2” of the cording from both ends of the piping for this overlap. (Another method would be to open the piping, remove a bit of cording from both sides, sew the ends together, re stitch the edge of the piping. I think my overlap is less obvious.)

When flipped, and I am finishing with the top stitching, this is what the overlap looks like - 

Sewing the apron to the lining, right sides together. 

I am not normally a “pin-er” but this next step requires good matching. I carefully pin the right side of apron (with piping already sewn to it) to right side of lining. 

Very important note - The shoulder seams are not yet attached to each other. I start/stop sewing 3” before the shoulder seams (8 spots) to give me room to sew them together (after it is flipped right side out) next. 

So in all 8 spots (below), the stitching starts 3” from the shoulder. I use pins to mark the 3” starting/stopping spot.

I sew the apron and lining together with the apron fabric on top, so I can see my original piping stitching line. 

I sew carefully just on the inside of my original piping stitching line so I am as snug to the piping as possible and so the original piping stitching line and my stitching line (both) do not show. 

In this example, below, the black thread shows my stitching line to sew the piping to the edge of the apron. The red thread shows my stitching line to sew the apron and lining together. Notice the red stitching line is inside the black, making the piping as snug as possible. My original black stitching line was right on top the manufacturer’s original stitching line on the piping. I have used a zipper foot and a zigzag foot for this process. I actually prefer the zigzag foot, I can get a better/tighter result.

Very important note - I leave a 6” gap/opening in a straight/flat part of the bottom of the apron to flip it right side out. I avoid where the piping overlap is and I avoid the side seams. When I top stitch later, this gap is sewed shut. Yes, 6” is enough. Here is a picture (below) from the back side, showing the 6” gap at the bottom.

Sewing the shoulder seams.

After flipping the whole thing right side out, please remember the shoulder straps cross in the back. 

There is an instruction video on YouTube for this pattern where the lady does not remember to cross the straps (and then complains the apron hangs funny). 

It is smart to lay the apron, right side out, to make sure the shoulder straps are not twisted and you have everything correct (above). 

Using the 3” of leeway I left myself, I sew the right sides of the apron shoulders seams together using a 5/8” seam allowance. 

And then I sew the right sides of the lining shoulder seams together also using a 5/8” seam allowance. 

I press both seams open carefully. I bury the raw edges of the apron shoulder seam allowance by pressing them under to form little triangles. I do this (triangle) with the apron fabric only, not the lining. The lining shoulder seam is just pressed open. 

Top stitching.

Then I top stitch around the entire apron using the piping to get a nice crisp edge. 

Hints about top stitching - chose a foot with a skinny edge so you catch the piping and the edge of the fabric (inside) in this top stitching, AND always stop the machine with the needle down in the fabric when you have to pause/adjust/straighten as you are top stitching, AND chose your thread color wisely so it blends. Blending thread makes stitching line wobbles less obvious. 

The top stitching closes the gap at the bottom, it is nice to back stitch just a couple stitches here and there for added strength.

When I get to the shoulders, I am very glad to have the extra 1/2” of fabric on the lining to turn under. The top stitching sews down the gaps. I back stitch a few places, just a couple stitches, to reinforce the shoulders. 

I also back stitch (just a couple stitches) in key places where the side seams overlap, the under arms, and the front neck center for added strength.

Press and add the pocket.

I iron the apron carefully. Sometimes the fabric is just a little wonky, just iron as best you can, smoothing things out.

Last step - I sew the pocket to the front using the original pattern front piece for placement. 

I top stitch this pocket around the outside edge twice. I back stitch, just a couple stitches, here and there for added strength.

This is what the stitching looks like from the back side. 

And here we are finished.