Simplicity 5201 apron sewing instructions

  Note - See the previous post for cutting directions.

So, here we are, cut and ready to sew.

The first sewing step, for me, is to make the pocket. 

Using 5/8” seam allowance, I sew right sides together. I leave a small (2”) gap to flip it right side out. It is easiest to leave the opening on the straight top edge, but not where the tuck will be. Yes, 2” is enough of a gap to turn it inside out.

I v-notch the curves. I cut the excess seam allowance at the corners without getting too close to the stitching line.

I turn the pocket piece right side out. I press it carefully. The top stitching will close the gap/opening. Using the pattern, I pin to tuck the center and top stitch, just this top edge, twice. 

It might seem weird to use the zigzag foot to top stitch, but it works well with the thickness of the tuck. I first line the foot up with the outside edge, and then I go back and sew down the middle (between the edge and my first top stitching line).  I back stitch over the tuck on both top stitching lines. 

It is a gift to myself later, to have the pocket ready to attach as the last step. 

Note - it is nice to “fussy cut” the pocket according to your fabric.

Next is to sew the front and back of the apron pieces at the side seams only, leave the shoulders unattached. 

I use a thin seam allowance (3/8”) and then also run the side seams through the serger to finish them so they do not fray with washings. I repeat with the lining pieces.  

I press all the seam allowances one/the same direction so they alternate when sewn together. (If you do not have a serger, you might have a finishing stitch on your regular machine, or at least zigzag.)

Piping

I use 3 packages of store bought piping (JoAnn’s). 

In my opinion piping is the easiest way to get a nice finish with the edge and top stitching. Piping comes in a variety of colors. I have only ever used this brand.

I use a zipper foot to attach the piping to the edge of the apron fabric. I take care to put the right side of the piping against the right side of the apron fabric (so the excess stitching/thread side of the piping does not show). Heavy thread side up, nice piping stitching down/against right side of apron. 

Very important note - When sewing the piping to the apron, be very careful not to tug on the piping, it will make the apron edging tight/too small. I try to stitch right on the heavy thread line of the piping. 

Important Note - I remove 1.5” of the cording from the piping at the shoulder seams. I simply pull a length out, measure, cut. 

I do this eight times (see below). I removed 1.5” of cording from the top of the piping on top of all (8) shoulder edges. This is very important for sewing the shoulders later. 

This (below) is how I connect the piping to make it all the way around the outside edge of the apron. I only have to do this once per apron. 

I pull/cut 2” of the cording from both ends of the piping for this overlap. (Another method would be to open the piping, remove a bit of cording from both sides, sew the ends together, re stitch the edge of the piping. I think my overlap is less obvious.)

When flipped, and I am finishing with the top stitching, this is what the overlap looks like - 

Sewing the apron to the lining, right sides together. 

I am not normally a “pin-er” but this next step requires good matching. I carefully pin the right side of apron (with piping already sewn to it) to right side of lining. 

Very important note - The shoulder seams are not yet attached to each other. I start/stop sewing 3” before the shoulder seams (8 spots) to give me room to sew them together (after it is flipped right side out) next. 

So in all 8 spots (below), the stitching starts 3” from the shoulder. I use pins to mark the 3” starting/stopping spot.

I sew the apron and lining together with the apron fabric on top, so I can see my original piping stitching line. 

I sew carefully just on the inside of my original piping stitching line so I am as snug to the piping as possible and so the original piping stitching line and my stitching line (both) do not show. 

In this example, below, the black thread shows my stitching line to sew the piping to the edge of the apron. The red thread shows my stitching line to sew the apron and lining together. Notice the red stitching line is inside the black, making the piping as snug as possible. My original black stitching line was right on top the manufacturer’s original stitching line on the piping. I have used a zipper foot and a zigzag foot for this process. I actually prefer the zigzag foot, I can get a better/tighter result.

Very important note - I leave a 6” gap/opening in a straight/flat part of the bottom of the apron to flip it right side out. I avoid where the piping overlap is and I avoid the side seams. When I top stitch later, this gap is sewed shut. Yes, 6” is enough. Here is a picture (below) from the back side, showing the 6” gap at the bottom.

Sewing the shoulder seams.

After flipping the whole thing right side out, please remember the shoulder straps cross in the back. 

There is an instruction video on YouTube for this pattern where the lady does not remember to cross the straps (and then complains the apron hangs funny). 

It is smart to lay the apron, right side out, to make sure the shoulder straps are not twisted and you have everything correct (above). 

Using the 3” of leeway I left myself, I sew the right sides of the apron shoulders seams together using a 5/8” seam allowance. 

And then I sew the right sides of the lining shoulder seams together also using a 5/8” seam allowance. 

I press both seams open carefully. I bury the raw edges of the apron shoulder seam allowance by pressing them under to form little triangles. I do this (triangle) with the apron fabric only, not the lining. The lining shoulder seam is just pressed open. 

Top stitching.

Then I top stitch around the entire apron using the piping to get a nice crisp edge. 

Hints about top stitching - chose a foot with a skinny edge so you catch the piping and the edge of the fabric (inside) in this top stitching, AND always stop the machine with the needle down in the fabric when you have to pause/adjust/straighten as you are top stitching, AND chose your thread color wisely so it blends. Blending thread makes stitching line wobbles less obvious. 

The top stitching closes the gap at the bottom, it is nice to back stitch just a couple stitches here and there for added strength.

When I get to the shoulders, I am very glad to have the extra 1/2” of fabric on the lining to turn under. The top stitching sews down the gaps. I back stitch a few places, just a couple stitches, to reinforce the shoulders. 

I also back stitch (just a couple stitches) in key places where the side seams overlap, the under arms, and the front neck center for added strength.

Press and add the pocket.

I iron the apron carefully. Sometimes the fabric is just a little wonky, just iron as best you can, smoothing things out.

Last step - I sew the pocket to the front using the original pattern front piece for placement. 

I top stitch this pocket around the outside edge twice. I back stitch, just a couple stitches, here and there for added strength.

This is what the stitching looks like from the back side. 

And here we are finished. 

Simplicity 5201 apron cutting instructions

Added later - cutting a new size small pattern, I added a lot of notches which helps in matching the front to the back later. And I marked the extra 1/2” I add to the lining (only), so I remember it. Can fold in 1/2” to cut the apron front.

Note - See next post for sewing directions.

When I ordered the apron pattern (above, eBay, hard to find, expensive, discontinued), I either did not get the instructions or misplaced them immediately, because somehow I never saw them. A friend just bought the pattern (eBay) and she is not sure she got the instructions either. YouTube instructions were so not helpful. I could not find a copy of the original instructions online. 

I just realized, looking at pictures of the back of the pattern envelope (below) online for this post, I have only been using view A and I only have the pattern pieces for view A. I am not sure where my original envelope is, so it is very possible that the instructions, pattern pieces for view B and envelope are floating around my sewing room in the wrong bin somewhere/how.

Instruction-less, I looked at the pattern pieces and just figured how to sew these aprons. I definitely have an engineering type mind. I have been sewing for over 50 years. I have perfected my technique, I think I have made a couple dozen of these aprons by now. (Whatever the original instructions are, my guess is my way is actually better.)

So here I am, down to my last few aprons, and I thought I better record it. If I make one five years from now, I will probably not remember. Someone might ask me for directions. And actually I really want to record the steps, because my technique is very specific and I spent a lot of time figuring out how to make these. I wrote this all out, in two parts, and then added the pictures as I made the last few aprons.

Today, part one, I am talking about the tools and supplies I use, my sewing room, and cutting out the pattern.

My sewing machines are old with metal parts, very solid sturdy. I do not have fancy new machines. My Kenmore is probably 45+ years old. (I take them in for regular service/oil/etc.)

Our old kitchen table top is now in my studio and is very handy and sturdy. My husband made a new base for it with 4x4’s and 2x4’s. A folding table would also work. 

I have an extra rectangular piece that sets on my ironing board which I love a lot.

Here are some of the sewing machine supplies I used for sewing aprons -

I use the zipper foot (left) to sew on the piping.

I use the zig zag foot (middle) to top stitch the pocket and to sew the apron/lining together. 

I use the skinny foot (right) to top stitch around the outside edge.

The scissors and tiny ruler live on my sewing machine. I use them every time I sew.

Zipper foot-

Zigzag foot-

Thin top stitching foot-

I reinforce patterns if I know I will use them a lot. Perfect example is all our doll clothes patterns. So my original apron pattern has been reinforced/protected with 911 Pellon iron on interfacing.

Hint - practice with extra pieces of pattern paper to get the right setting on your iron. Too hot and the paper will wrinkle badly. 

These aprons make fabulous gifts. If you might make a lot, consider reinforcing it with Pellon 911 iron on interfacing. And consider leaving it intact and tracing the sizes/making duplicates to use.

I have traced three sizes (S, M, L)  to make separate copies/patterns, using gridded pattern fabric (below). I marked all the notches, fold line and straight of grain carefully on all my copies. I use the copies to cut out my aprons.

I store them in large envelopes.

Cutting the fabric -

The first thing to note is I cut the fabric out very carefully. I am very exact in cutting the notches, particularly on the shoulders. I am also careful/exact with my fold lines and straight of grain measuring. The apron pieces and the lining pieces need to be identical. 

The picture below is lining, with the fabric folded as it comes off the bolt, as you are use to seeing fabric.

And this next one, showing the apron fabric that goes with the lining (above), the fabric is folded the other way so the fish are going the correct direction. The fold is on the left in this picture.  

If you are confused, look at the selvage to orient yourself. The pattern (size medium) just fit on this fabric, going this direction. So pay attention to your print orientation and then make sure the fabric is wide enough for this layout. A make  sure you have enough length. 

Next is a very important step!!! I add extra fabric at the shoulders, to the lining fabric only, when I cut out this apron pattern. I add 1/2” tapering down 3” on the sides. This is very important, you will thank yourself later. 

This is how I do it, every time, measure and draw lines with a pencil. For this one, I used a black marker so you can see the lines clearly in the pictures. 

Trouble shooting - every once in a while I have a piece of fabric where it is not wide enough to add extra 1/2” to the lining shoulders. I simply sew extra fabric to make it work. 

Consider fussy cutting the pocket, it is fun. Usually I make the pocket out of the same fabric as the apron front. Once or twice, I have used the lining fabric for the pocket.